During medieval times, places in Africa were developing their own tradition and cultural identities. These identities influenced people's religion, government, language, and even clothing. The history of Africa's clothing is colorful and beautiful. The garments are stitched together with the rich history of its people.
Just as fashion goes through phases and different looks today, so too did the styles of medieval and early modern Africa. Many of these styles came from times long ago, and some are still worn today. Fashion also differed from place to place. If we look at several West African countries, we can see how different their textiles were from one another.
NIGERIA
A long, sleeveless robe called a boubou was worn by men, with a long shirt or pants underneath. Women wore a flowing dress similar in design, called an m'boubou. These robes were used for everyday attire, but certain special designs and colors were only used for special occasions.
MALI
Specific to the Bamana people, Malians developed a mud cloth known as bogolanfini. Both
men and women took part
in its creation. They weaved cotton strips called finimougou together to make rectangular wraps called pagne. A special, fermented mud was used to design their clothes in brown and black. This clothing was often worn by women, as they entered adulthood, and by hunters, depicting feats of bravery and prowess.
SIERRA LEONE
Know for gara dyeing, gara being the main plant used in their indigo vats to color their cloth, Sierra Leone was known for its textile trade long before any Europeans set foot on their coastline. The beautiful woven designs were worn as coats by the men and as lappas (long wraps) by the women for ceremonies or rituals.
Textile is a type of cloth that is often woven or knitted. Cotton, silk, and wool are all examples of different textiles.
GHANA
Legend says that Ashantis Ota Karaban and his friend Kwaku Ameyaw were entranced by a spider weaving its web. They learned the spider's secrets
and brought this knowledge home to Bonwire to create kente cloth. Only royalty were allowed to wear the colorful and intricate strip-woven cloth. However, this popular design was eventually worn by the common folk during special occasions to signify their wealth.
TOGO
Like many African countries, Togo is made up of several different tribes of people, the Ewe being the most prominent. Just like their Ghanese neighbors, the Ewe of Togo made kente cloth. Kente was an everyday fabric used by the common folk. Their designs showed how daily life goes on and were not used to show off one’s social standing.
BURKINA FASO
Masks in this region of Western Africa not only referred to face coverings but to the dances and rituals associated with them. Masks were carved out of the ceiba or cotton tree and the complementary costume was
made out of the fibers of the
Hibiscus Cannabinus to resemble animals or spirits of ancestors. The masked performers looked imposing, with geometric designs stenciled on massive wooden face shields. They were and still are often worn, the dances and rituals being performed by the men of the tribe for protection, during planting season, and at funerals.
West Africa's clothing is as diverse as its people. The colors are vibrant and insightful. The designs are sharply iconic and memorable. They help people remember and honor the past. African textiles are a history all on their own.